CP

[BrianSB]

Great session today. Was there from about 9:30-12:30. Waves were SICK for the first hour or so. I was using my old board, kinda bummed because I've since moved up to a 6'1 and it's amazing how much more maneuverable + light it is. But the glassed on fins on it broke, so had to take out my dolphin of destiny. Should be a cheap repair. But yeah, great fun to be had. Caught one bomb briefly.

Hoping for the same tmrw, + will try to get there even earlier.

[Goletagirl]

The waves were fun! But definitely soft with the high tide. Had to paddle like heck for a couple, but they were worth it.
I thought that looked like a different board today. We were impressed with the waves you caught with your short board (how short is it?). Having a longboard out there was definitely an advantage when the waves were rolling. ;)
Have fun tomorrow.

[BrianSB]

The waves were fun! But definitely soft with the high tide. Had to paddle like heck for a couple, but they were worth it.
I thought that looked like a different board today. We were impressed with the waves you caught with your short board (how short is it?). Having a longboard out there was definitely an advantage when the waves were rolling. ;)
Have fun tomorrow.

The 'dolphin of destiny' (or my Kazuma board) is 6'6. I had a bit of trouble with placement because the waves were coming in at different spots (obviously). As per you said, sometimes the wave just rolled past you. Other times I positioned myself too far inside and would be in a bad spot. That and the waves were either rolling in near the rock, and then section to the left of it (facing the ocean), or just start breaking quite a distance from the rock.

I also realized that part of the problem I've been having popping up is that I wasn't pushing up all the way, and not doing the whole yoga crouching tiger stuff or whatever it's called. The Sphinx? Now I just need to get my foot placement right.

Seems like you caught a few good ones.