2-24-2008...visual stimulation continues

[carpjaws]

multi media junkie, carpjaws, has found a few more nuggets for your viewing pleasure...it will take a long time to dissipate the energy from the fab-feb-swell...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlCVl0tuaBA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47xVEajHpR8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMdnHXZIkpM

[JonS]

multi media junkie, carpjaws, has found a few more nuggets for your viewing pleasure...it will take a long time to dissipate the energy from the fab-feb-swell...


Back in another thread I asked folks to comment on wave height, and there seemed to be little agreement. Some were calling it as small as 10 feet. Well, below is some actual scientfic data to support is was closer to 20. Whenever we have a true West swell (280° +/-) actual wave height runs very close to observed swell height. As you move closer to 300°, the numbers become more disparate.

Check this out:
http://santabarbarasurfer.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=526&stc=1&d=1204776426

[Gebweb]

FUEL FOR THE FEEDING FRENZIE - I STARED AT EACH ONE MINDFULLY

thanks for the material - it's a material world.
turn the sound up and rock'em

[Russell]

Thanks for that. I saw something in the paper recently about the Carp gang Carpas?????? Anyway the other thing I was thinking with all this Blake Howard homage is the goofy who was the best of my era and a Carp local who died of cancer, and my mind can't remember his name. I could call Donny Campbell but he would wonder why. On wave size calls, it isn't objective or scientific, that is why we love it. Someone has to set the criteria. Billabong has tried but where do you start the measurement? In my day the criteria was set by the supposed rule that Sunset closed out over 15'. So look at the biggest wave you ever saw at Sunset, that is 15'. You have to judge all other waves by that. That day at Rincon was not 1/2 the size of 15' Sunset. Who cares? Its all fun and lets hope we have more reasons to talk about it. Looks like Spring out there.

[shamgod]

Russel's image is interesting because you can see how the channel island reduce swell size with the shadow effect. I have no data to back it up but I've always felt everything from south OC and below gets bigger, more consistent surf. the image show why. Look at those windows.

One thing I don't go for is using photos to judge wave height because camera placement and lens design can wildly affect perspective. It just isn't scientific looking at a picture of a wave with a guy on it and holding up a ruler.

Regarding big sunday at rincon, waves that size aren't at all unusual at Black's Beach in La Jolla. A big difference would be that Black's doesn't grind through a bay for 200 yards.

[carpjaws]

gebweb, i too like these topics that roll for awhile because our community is local and yet diverse enough to really be interesting for me...shamgod, how that santa Barbabra channel, it has caused me, too, to run around all these years...and yeah, Russell, the vatos californios of carpinteria have their 'carpas' gang -forget about it...sizing, the common denominator for our size rap is definitely those who have been loose in the juice know that it is a 'big' part of the mana of surfing - 15ft sunset, that's carpjaws paddling...and that goofy foot surfer from name was "Scott Gall" and i believed he died of cancer in the early '90's...spring, the funny surf season, uh...

[shamgod]

paddling...and that goofy foot surfer from name was "Scott O'Farrel" and i believed he died of cancer in the early '90's...spring, the funny surf season, uh...

That reminds me of a great San Diego local who died early and young in the 80's. His name was Chris O'rourke. I think he was about 23. Great surfer.
Only the good die young.

[JonS]

That reminds me of a great San Diego local who died early and young in the 80's. His name was Chris O'rourke. I think he was about 23. Great surfer.
Only the good die young.

That was a real tragedy. O'Rourke was the then-version of a Dane Reynolds...

[Russell]

Carpas I don't know if your were joking but my mind kicked in, Scott Gall, he was the man especially when it got big.

[carpjaws]

yeah Russel that's right Scott Gall...i was trying to remember Scott's last name and the wrong one stuck (no disrespect, si'l vous plait) and i didn't want to call don either...i can remember a number days at the 'con at size and Scott in my vicinity looking quit at ease with so much style...and as shamgod reminds us least we not forget those who've gone...on any day take a wave and think of someone...classic still in limbo, SBSurfer, at this time?

[yakas]

i remember seeing scott doing backflips on a skimboard.

[Gebweb]

A payment of respects to all

A toast to those who die a surfer, we're a group of tribal individuals and the reward of our passion (as with other passions) lies deep and threads the soul.
- to those that grew old from times of battle with the establishment.
- to those too young to go and left us incomplete from their promise of talent and friendship.


A payment of repect to 15' Sunset Beach. Give this a minute to load

http://www.surfshooterhawaii.com/podcast/ONeilWCS1Dec07.m4v

Make's ya wonder what's in the heart of a surfer?

[JonS]

A payment of respects to all

A toast to those who die a surfer, we're a group of tribal individuals and the reward of our passion (as with other passions) lies deep and threads the soul.
- to those that grew old from times of battle with the establishment.
- to those too young to go and left us incomplete from their promise of talent and friendship.


A payment of repect to 15' Sunset Beach. Give this a minute to load

http://www.surfshooterhawaii.com/podcast/ONeilWCS1Dec07.m4v

Make's ya wonder what's in the heart of a surfer?


Killer vid. Sunset kicks ass!

[Russell]

First thanks all of you who know how to post those old (and new) vids and pics. Love them all. For the record, that is not what I was referring to as 15' Sunset. One of you should be able to find something historical that has it. Remember I was saying that the criteria in my day was 15' was as big as it got! Bigger than that it closed out. Something with Peter Cole, BK, Bigler, Hakman or even Ian Cairns??? Looking almost like Waimea!

[carpjaws]

"the north shore is raw north pacific power" ricky grigg...sunset beach, pau malu...

[Gebweb]

got to step up for sunset -

it alone deserves ... comparison is thin ... even around the world, Rincon is humbled even to get a chance at measure in it's 'corner by the sea'. the one-day-wonder was that it even got that big inside the channel and all the spots saw their biggest swell - any dissenters with this comment?

honors to the one day wonder of 2-24 and the
- guys that paddled and towed C-street
- couple of guys that paddled Solimar
- couple paddlers that did overhead (and 2-3 tow teams)
- couple dozen plus that made it out at rincon
- lone soul around horse-shoe reef summerland
- river rafters of sandspit
- busy lineup at campus at triple OH running thru poles (Goleta scale)
- cat and mouse at the outer half of el cap
- fringe surfers at all the other between spots.

post a 2-24 story about an anonymous buddy and I'll reciprocate ...

back to sunset -
have to scratch around the web to get more pics worthy to post of sunset no-one else did so I might as well blow into it's sail - shame it's not a camera focus anymore. I have intimate respect for sunset as I suppose many of you do.

Is there any justice in these small format shots?

laterz

[Gebweb]

someting else indeed

[Cutback]

Nice frames cj

[Russell]

Yeah that's more like it! That vid although great looked like a big local swell, not the pure, clean big West juice that really makes it work. Weird you almost never see pics anymore, everybody went to Pipe and Backdoor. Thanks for the effort. PS Especially that one of Hakman '74, my era when he was the man. I don't know if anyone ever surfed it big, better. The story goes his Dad sent him out there when he was 13. I think he got into the Duke finals when he was 15.

[shamgod]

Yeah, Sunset seems out of vogue. Mavericks and other places get the ink. I've never surfed North shore, but I have surfed Samoa, Indo, and Fiji and the Philippines. Island waves always break harder and faster than continental waves because of the drag from the continental shelf. All else being equal, big Sunset is heavier than big Mavericks. Yeah Mavs is cold but what that really means is you float better with all that wetsuit rubber. Cortez bank would be something else though I suppose.

[tpl]

Sham: have you surfed Sunset or Mavericks? I sure hope you have surfed both if you are going to try to make that claim.

[shamgod]

Sham: have you surfed Sunset or Mavericks? I sure hope you have surfed both if you are going to try to make that claim.

I haven't surfed either. But science is science. You may not like the fact that continental shelves exist and affect swell energy, but unfortunately that doesn't change the laws of physics. Sorry I'm the one to have to break it to you.

[tpl]

Sham: go surf both of those waves and then come back and tell us that Sunset is a heavier wave than Mavericks....ha ha ha. Science may say the the continental shelf does this and that, but until you've been up close and personal at both spots, you wouldn't know. Both waves are heavy when they are big, but I hate to break it to you, Mavericks is heavier.

[shamgod]

Sham: go surf both of those waves and then come back and tell us that Sunset is a heavier wave than Mavericks....ha ha ha. Science may say the the continental shelf does this and that, but until you've been up close and personal at both spots, you wouldn't know. Both waves are heavy when they are big, but I hate to break it to you, Mavericks is heavier.

For equivalent swell size, I seriously doubt that. I'd admit though that mavs has a harder take off. But in terms of overall energy, all else being equal, no way.

[Russell]

I don't know if either of you have surfed either wave but there is no comparison, they are totally different and it does make a difference, warm tropics and cold evil water, Mark Foo died there.

[shamgod]

I don't know if either of you have surfed either wave but there is no comparison, they are totally different and it does make a difference, warm tropics and cold evil water, Mark Foo died there.

And why can't you compare? You can compare anything you want. They're different waves so of course they can be compared. I've surfed tropical island reef breaks all over the planet and surfed the pacific coast of North America from Costa Rica to Oregon. And there IS a difference in wave energy and it has nothing to do with water temperature or palm trees and everything to do with the undeniable scientific FACT that islands don't have a continental shelf and continents do. If you don't believe me, go down to Scripps Institute of Oceanography and talk to the Physicists and Oceanographers who work there.

And yes Russel, we all know about Mark Foo, so what. a guy once died at Swami's on a big day too. That doesn't tell us anything.

[Gebweb]

my 2 cents

TPL has been under more water than most of the pros ... so with a polite air woven back into his comments ... he could tell you what to expect and direct you how to survive these spots - I have had such help from a similar friend.

If identical swells (i.e. 10' 20 sec) are delivered to both breaklines, the total energies are identical "by definition". I am going to take an educated leap assumption and say the wave face size will also be the same. This is a good thing so we can opinionate on terms of delivery.

The DELIVERY of the energy is very different and it is marvolous to see. sunset stands up and mavs sucks down - the same amount of energy is dissapated but how it feels on your head and how (long) it holds you down. My take is that a mavs wipeout would drive you deeper on an identical swell and the ramification may be more serious ... it may be the home of the 2 wave hold-down.

For comparison purposes it is tough to know empirically what exactly is arriving at a breakline because of effects on a distant swell reading:
- sunset buoy is 200 miles away
- mavs buoy is ~50
- sunset has shallower reefs outside
- mavs outside is deeper cause it can deliver a much large ultimate swell
- optimal swell angle

so comparison is not an easy thing
- and to that I say that our impressions are the object of our subjective perpective as long as no-one objects as to the subject of our perceptions.

it's a school night - I'm goin to bed (yeah, wish I was back in school)
late ;)

[shamgod]

my 2 cents

TPL has been under more water than most of the pros ... so with a polite air woven back into his comments ... he could tell you what to expect and direct you how to survive these spots - I have had such help from a similar friend.

If identical swells (i.e. 10' 20 sec) are delivered to both breaklines, the total energies are identical "by definition". I am going to take an educated leap assumption and say the wave face size will also be the same. This is a good thing so we can opinionate on terms of delivery.

The DELIVERY of the energy is very different and it is marvolous to see. sunset stands up and mavs sucks down - the same amount of energy is dissapated but how it feels on your head and how (long) it holds you down. My take is that a mavs wipeout would drive you deeper on an identical swell and the ramification may be more serious ... it may be the home of the 2 wave hold-down.

For comparison purposes it is tough to know empirically what exactly is arriving at a breakline because of effects on a distant swell reading:
- sunset buoy is 200 miles away
- mavs buoy is ~50
- sunset has shallower reefs outside
- mavs outside is deeper cause it can deliver a much large ultimate swell
- optimal swell angle

so comparison is not an easy thing
- and to that I say that our impressions are the object of our subjective perpective as long as no-one objects as to the subject of our perceptions.

it's a school night - I'm goin to bed (yeah, wish I was back in school)
late ;)

Here's why I think you're wrong. You don't factor velocity. Imagine a 1998 Corolla coming at you at 70mph. Now imagine the exact same corolla coming at you at 20 mph. Which one are you more scared of? Personally I think I'd have an easier time with the 20mph version.

[Russell]

Not that many surfers from here have really surfed 15' Sunset and Mavs. They are in fact totally different experiences and nobody who has never done it, has "cred" on the issue, I don't care where else you may have surfed. Anybody from my era or even close, who wanted to have cred, knew they had to surf big Sunset. Nobody who has actually surfed Mavs is going to diminish its impact and nobody who has surfed big Sunset would either. They are two of the most challenging waves in the world and not really that much fun. Like climbing Everest, is that fun? I hate cold water and getting trashed on the rocks. Mark Foo dying there and some kook dying at Swamis are in fact different things.

[shamgod]

Not that many surfers from here have really surfed 15' Sunset and Mavs. They are in fact totally different experiences and nobody who has never done it, has "cred" on the issue, I don't care where else you may have surfed. Anybody from my era or even close, who wanted to have cred, knew they had to surf big Sunset. Nobody who has actually surfed Mavs is going to diminish its impact and nobody who has surfed big Sunset would either. They are two of the most challenging waves in the world and not really that much fun. Like climbing Everest, is that fun? I hate cold water and getting trashed on the rocks. Mark Foo dying there and some kook dying at Swamis are in fact different things.

Okay Russel do tell us why Mark Foo's life is somehow more valuable than the guy who died at Swami's. A guy you know nothing about yet feel comfortable calling him a "Kook". What a stupid thing to say. These little teenybopper surf gods you worship aren't worth any more than anyone else. Have a look at the video of Slater snaking that guy at Rincon. Show's you what makes that bald little prick tick. You talk about credibility? Guess what, you just lost yours.

[Russell]

Nobody is talking about the relative value of people's lives????????? What kind of weirdo shit is that????????? Mark Foo was one of the most experienced, talented big wave surfers in history, he died the first time he surfed Mavs. No one with "cred" is going to claim Swamis is a death defying wave for any fit, experienced surfer. Everyone who has surfed Mavs or 15' Sunset knows they could kill you. That's the only point I'm trying to make.

[zippitydodog]

If you start comparing a nice summer swell at Mondos, with a nice summer swell at Campus Pt., then I'll join the discussion. LOL

Just kidding, as I love being privy to your discussions of all things surf!;)

[tpl]

Thanks GebWeb,
Since I've seen you literally crawl out of Sunset's death grip, you can definitely attest to the fact that big Sunset is a heavy wave, no doubt about it. Like you, I've had my ass handed to me several times at Sunset. I think the main reason I think Mavs is a heavier wave is because I've got more water time in at Sunset than at Mavs, and so, I feel much more comfortable out at Sunset. Heck, I could have paddle out at big Sunset blindfolded and with handcuffs on and not been scared.
I'm not a physics major, nor an oceanography major, so I couldn't tell you scientifically which wave packs more punch. I will tell you, though, that in my experience, I've been drilled much harder by a bomb in the bowl at Mavs than any 15' wave at Sunset, be it a wide swinging west peak or a down the line north bowl. So yeah, in my own personal experience, I would have to say that Mavs packs more punch. Ask 20 other guys who have surfed both places, and you'll probably get guys that would say Sunset.
Wave velocity aside, Mavs is still a heavier wave, in my opinion. At Sunset, you've got warm water, warm weather, a relatively straight, easy swim in (as long as you don't get sucked into the rip), lifeguards that will come get if you really, really, really need help (and if they feel like it), and you can surf it without a leash.
Mavs on the other hand has cold water, cold weather, you have to wear a bulky, restrictive wetsuit, no lifeguards (although the guys on skis in the channel will pick guys up if need be), a long swim in (not straight in but a long ways around the rocks), big rocks on the inside that will eat you up after you take about 5 - 6 waves on the head, and a very heavy takeoff bowl section. Plus, at Mavs you pretty much have to wear a leash.
So yeah, I'm going with Mavs as the heavier wave.
GebWeb, you're going up there next winter, no ifs, ands, or buts!!

[tpl]

Sham,
Please go surf both spots a few times next winter, and then come back and tell us what you think. In all honesty, have you surfed big waves on a consistent basis (Sunday the 24th at campus is not big). If not, then your opinion isn't very credible. That would be like me trying to make some in-depth analysis on baseball or football. Yeah, I watch them on TV, and I may have played a little as a kid, but I don't have the first hand experience to make a credible, well-informed analysis or comparison.
GebWeb, on the other hand, and Russell from the sounds of it, have experienced big waves and thus have the credibility to sound off on this topic. I know there are others in this area who have big wave (not 8ft. Rincon) experience, and I'd like to hear their opinions. Mud-Duck, Farmdog, H.L., D.S., C.B.????

[shamgod]

Sham,
Please go surf both spots a few times next winter, and then come back and tell us what you think. ?

It's really not enough to say some guys say Sunset is heavier and some don't. There is science behind our waves.

Motion of waves is only effective at moving water to depth equal to one half of the Wavelength (L/2). Water deeper than L/2 does not move. Thus, waves cannot erode the bottom or move sediment in water deeper than L/2. This depth is called wave base. In the Pacific Ocean, wavelengths up to 600 m have been observed, thus water deeper than 300m will not feel passage of wave. But outer parts of continental shelves average 200 m depth, so considerable erosion can take place out to the edge of the continental shelf with such long wavelength waves.

When waves approach shore, the water depth decreases and the wave will start feeling bottom. Because of friction, the wave velocity (= L/P) decreases, but its period (P) remains the same Thus, the wavelength (L) will decrease.

Open ocean islands, unlike continents, do not have continental shelves. That's one of the things that makes them islands and not continents. So, less friction=more energy.

[Goletagirl]

It's really not enough to say some guys say Sunset is heavier and some don't. There is science behind our waves.

Motion of waves is only effective at moving water to depth equal to one half of the Wavelength (L/2). Water deeper than L/2 does not move. Thus, waves cannot erode the bottom or move sediment in water deeper than L/2. This depth is called wave base. In the Pacific Ocean, wavelengths up to 600 m have been observed, thus water deeper than 300m will not feel passage of wave. But outer parts of continental shelves average 200 m depth, so considerable erosion can take place out to the edge of the continental shelf with such long wavelength waves.

When waves approach shore, the water depth decreases and the wave will start feeling bottom. Because of friction, the wave velocity (= L/P) decreases, but its period (P) remains the same Thus, the wavelength (L) will decrease.

Open ocean islands, unlike continents, do not have continental shelves. That's one of the things that makes them islands and not continents. So, less friction=more energy.

Man, that sure takes the romance out of it!

[Russell]

Yeah TPL one of the things here is who the hell are we, I guess that is the Internet thing, I do this on other issues and people love to blow off their shit annoymously. One thing I agree with is there is no cred with those who have not done it, no "imagining" what it would be like to surf 15' Sunset or Mavs. I have to question your claim that you paddel out at 15' Sunset not scared???? As it looks like you know, there is a world of difference between beaut 10' Sunset and 15' death defying Sunset. Everytime I ever paddled out at the later, I was scared. One of the reasons I settled in Hanalei is I hated giant Sunset, that peak moving around 50 yards or more on every set. 20 years of surfing Hanalei and I never got caught inside when it was big. I think I got caught inside everyday I ever surfed big Sunset, kinda hard to get the set waves and not be inside on the swingers. Anyway, I can't take your challenge, too old, I like Costa now, surfing the Con on the good days and boating around here, and just remembering G-Land, Haapitii, SCARY Cloudbreak Tavarua, Pipe..........

[shamgod]

Man, that sure takes the romance out of it!

Depends, I don't go to church and think the divinity of Jesus is a pipedream. But when you start explaining our physical world with the precision of mathematics, for me at least it points to something that creates order from chaos. That's pretty damn romantic to me.

[Goletagirl]

I only meant that there is something to be said for the excitement of the mysterious. To each their own of course.
Both 15' Sunset and Mav's are both waves I will never experience except for the stories I'm told (and hopefully one day I'll see them). I respect anyone who can surf either of them.

[shamgod]

One thing I agree with is there is no cred with those who have not done it, no "imagining" what it would be like to surf 15' Sunset or Mavs...

We're talking about Maverick's here so by that measure you don't have the "Cred" to discuss any of this since you never surfed there. This isn't the parking lot at Rincon, it's the internet, it's democratic, it's free, and everyone's got the same credibility here which is absolutely fucking ZERO. Zilch. Nada.

Who the hell are you Russel? For all I know you're a 16 year old sophomore in Topeka Kansas. For all you know I'm Paris Hilton. So shut up with your "Cred" nonsense.

[Russell]

You are talking to your self. You are some Santa Monica old fart transplant who can't surf anymore. Who cares, not us! You are a weirdo!!!!!!!!!!!

[shamgod]

You are talking to your self. You are some Santa Monica old fart transplant who can't surf anymore. Who cares, not us! You are a weirdo!!!!!!!!!!!

What's this "Us" stuff? gotta mouse in your pocket?

[tpl]

I think we all need to get together and have Sham banned from any further discussions. The garbage that eminates from his fingertips is beyond belief. It's time to ignore him and hope that he fades off into oblivion.

Russell,
20 yrs in Hanalei. Did you know JC from Carp?
You're right, maybe there would be a little fear with the blindfolded, handcuffed paddle out at Sunset. Watching Peter Cole (at age 70+) swim in time after time after getting blasted by big clean up sets sure made me feel pretty inferior. I've heard he's slowed it down quite a bit in the last few years. I haven't been back to the North Shore (Oahu) in a few years, but I can still picture Sunset in all her glory (15ft. west northwest swell, light trades, etc.)...Oh what a sight.

GebWeb, we need to come up with a name for your infamous death crawl.

[shamgod]

I think we all need to get together and have Sham banned from any further discussions. The garbage that eminates from his fingertips is beyond belief. It's time to ignore him and hope that he fades off into oblivion.



What a pair of thugs you two are.

[Russell]

I think we all need to get together and have Sham banned from any further discussions. The garbage that eminates from his fingertips is beyond belief. It's time to ignore him and hope that he fades off into oblivion.

Russell,
20 yrs in Hanalei. Did you know JC from Carp?
You're right, maybe there would be a little fear with the blindfolded, handcuffed paddle out at Sunset. Watching Peter Cole (at age 70+) swim in time after time after getting blasted by big clean up sets sure made me feel pretty inferior. I've heard he's slowed it down quite a bit in the last few years. I haven't been back to the North Shore (Oahu) in a few years, but I can still picture Sunset in all her glory (15ft. west northwest swell, light trades, etc.)...Oh what a sight.

GebWeb, we need to come up with a name for your infamous death crawl.

JC was my bro, not only in the surf but we played some mean tennis, pissed me off that fat guy could usually beat me. One of the ones we really miss. At least he lived the good life at the end there in Princeville with his family.

[Gebweb]

girls girls - I'm being facescious goletagirl - just want to see the 'boyz' get along.

The important measure is to be "provacative" and so good on this post for bringing out the drama. We all get heard and it's our choice to listen.

"It's really not enough to say some guys say Sunset is heavier and some don't. There is science behind our waves." = yup, science does up-hold empirical or observed record when there is proper control in our 'experiment'. It's just tough to apply the science alone for judement. You would have to take a wave machine to hit both reefs with the same juice (height, period, direction,...) to then get a real measurement of delivery. We would need a buoy just outside the reef to compare breaks properly ... but Sham, your science is right on and we have fun speculating as well. In this case we have something to try to convince ourselves about.

"GebWeb, we need to come up with a name for your infamous death crawl." = one of those embarassing moments that the onlooking tourists have no concept about. I'll call it the "to proud to puke pose while kissing terra firma" ... except when you actually do puke. Nothing like it and it amazes me that most just go back out and try to prove their worth all over again, albiet, after some recuperation, we are a bit centric.

"that peak moving around 50 yards or more on every set. 20 years of surfing Hanalei and I never got caught inside when it was big. I think I got caught inside everyday I ever surfed big Sunset" = great point Russell - and I think right on the button ... however, the few times I've seen larger sets drain at Hanalaei have just shook my brain, but to tell it true you can hang outside on big foam and dodge the bullet - H-bay must be such a golden memory for you. I'm thankful I know a small piece of it. TPL, don't believe you've enduldged, but figure it as jelly bowl perfect, below sealevel from the rock pile to the pier and holding almost as big as sunset (I think?)... and that's just the middle section (table-rock).

Now What ........ which is heavier? ........ Sunset or Hanalaei. On shit not this again ..........

now who's gonna thro the end of winter party so we can cry in our beer?
luv yaz all

[Russell]

On this one I speak from experience. For one thing on the same swell Hanalei is at least 5' Hawaiian smaller. Less juice because the swell slows down moving into the Bay. No comparison on the takeoff, Hanalei is not a serious takeoff at all, don't need me to tell you about the takeoff at Sunset. Surface conditions on the same day are almost always cleaner at Hanalei. The one thing is on the same huge swell, Hanalei on giant Wests rarely closes out. I surfed Hanalei from 72-2003 and the biggest day I saw it Billy Hamilton was calling it 16-18' Hawaiin (remember this is on the scale that Sunset closes out after 15'). Nowadays I hear Laird, Titus and the boys are towing Kings which never closes out but that is in fact a different surf spot. A couple of the reasons I loved Hanalei is the dry hair paddle out no matter how big it was, never got caught inside when it was big (although it can happen and if so you may die!) the most beautiful place in the world sitting out there on a clean day! Ah the day.

[carpjaws]

fresh off 'da plane and butterflies over stoke-carpas' existential dilemma-to be there again...this isn't me russell (i don't think they had h2o cameras in my day) but a 'visual vibe' to the memoirs...you too bro's, gebweb y tpl...mahalo kauai

[Gebweb]

I have to NOT think about the bay to NOT be unhappy about NOT being there. Thanks you guys for sharing ... although I will grovel at your feet for a couple 'more' shots of the beloved.

Here is the bay cam from Princeville for a brief revisit

http://www.seehawaiilive.com/pvh-cam.cfm

off to the beach

[Russell]

Rarely see good ones of the Bay. Couldn't imagine swimming out there with a camera. Seems like lots of good vantage points with a big telephoto but nobody does it or at least they don't publish them. That was the size I liked the Bay the best. Clean, makeable a long way, not death defying but plenty o juice. Look at that guy'[s board, Hanalei alright. Probably close to 9' gun. People like to get in early and glide through that first turn. When I was young I surfed the smallest board I could make it on and I saw Titus surf it 12' Hawaiin on a 6' something twin fin. The older you get the better those long guns look.

[carpjaws]

2nd wish, granted...sit back, pop a couple of cold 'primo's' and feel it...

[Russell]

The thing is there are probably 10 real pro surfers on kauai today and a whole host of other contenders, these guys are shreding serious surf. That first one may be Roy Powers.

[Gebweb]

2nd wish, granted...sit back, pop a couple of cold 'primo's' and feel it...

I'm beside myself now ... the wife will drag me back to HI. next Feb or so (funny statement) and I'm torn between the backyards overlook and the H-bay nervanic. I'm serious, now I gotta choose - what'll it be. Guess it's nice to have a choice, though it must be made ... once again.

I'm inna tizzy - what say Russell
thankyou

[Russell]

Well obviously I don't know who you are or how old you are. I admit I can't surf maxed Hanalei anymore or we won't even talk about it here but I have that Island wired and there are a whole host of other spots. I today pick off Kauai in early fall and late Spring because I can't do the middle of winter. I have been everywhere. 10 trips to outer island Tahitii, Indo and all that. I like Costa nowadays. There is nothing better than a Princeville condo on the bluffs and surfing Hanalei as big or small as you can handle, Good luck.

[Gebweb]

Well obviously I don't know who you are or how old you are. I admit I can't surf maxed Hanalei anymore or we won't even talk about it here but I have that Island wired and there are a whole host of other spots. I today pick off Kauai in early fall and late Spring because I can't do the middle of winter. I have been everywhere. 10 trips to outer island Tahitii, Indo and all that. I like Costa nowadays. There is nothing better than a Princeville condo on the bluffs and surfing Hanalei as big or small as you can handle, Good luck.

Kind Fellow

I won't be running around the isle like I used to with the boyz (wife now) but I can imagine your fond memories of the shallows off the east side and running past (summer or winter) for the wsw side for that fine left or up to the base. I'm double nickels now as my insurance man reminded me last birthday and am happy sitting out the real big days and goin to the 2ndary spots. It's just that place in the soul while on the garden isle that you don't quite get to while strutting along the 'north shore'.

Damn - I was out in the water for 3+ hours today and at the end of the day a young lady I'm fond of (who was also out there the entire time) asked me whether I had a real life - I said ... "here I am".

for the lucky among us - it's a matter of choice that we get to make.

never been tahiti but goin again to north Sumatra this summer for that magic - you know that I know that you know...

hang ten, thanks for the insite - it is golden
off to hit the pillow
Andres

[carpjaws]

and your third wish my lil'master of the universe...i've only done october but spring fling at "club Med" (long gone) could mean a bali-high...russell dished the facts but the decision of the heart is all yours, bro'...

[Gebweb]

Uncle, Uncle

can't take it anymore. I'll rub my golden orb end of summer to make a hard copy decision.

my take on the retorical question - foot for foot same size - table rock wall vs west peak ... I'll say H-bay more readily strips me of my manhood. It's the drain along the bottom that gives me the chills. I have been blessed to see just a few 10' (triple OH+) at the bay and I have been direct under that at sunset. It's just that there is more water under the west peak.

take care gents
tanks for playing